An ever-controversial denim silhouette, barrel leg jeans rose back to fame back in early 2021 with Citizens of Humanity’s launch of the horseshoe jean.

The style has witnessed ebbs and flows in popularity since this initial relaunch. We say relaunch as teenagers and young adults of the late 70s and early 80s will be well acquainted with the horseshoe jean, most commonly referred to as the barrel jean.

For the uninitiated, think of the barrel-leg as a more thoughtful, tailored iteration of the humble baggy jean. Instead of continuing said bagginess down the entirety of the leg, barrel jeans taper at the ankle, which creates that characteristic balloon-like shape. The resulting look is fitted at the waist, loose at the thighs, flared at the mid-leg and complete with a neat, narrow finish.

Tina Kunakey arriving at Alaia Fall-Winter 2023-2024 Haute Couture show.

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There are multiple different ‘levels’ of barrelage, as it were, when it comes to this particular denim style. Ranging from a subtle taper with casual, barely-there bagginess to a downright Bowie-esque look, the styling possibilities for all sorts of eclectic dressers are seemingly endless. But why should one opt to invest in a pair of the somewhat outlandish garment this season over, say, a good old pair of boyfriend jeans or loose-fit flares?