Le Veau D’or is the city’s most buzzed about restaurant revival in recent memory — with thrilling good reason.

It audaciously resurrects the fabled, boldface-haunt that opened at 129 E. 60th St in 1937 and served its last escargot in 2019.

At the new iteration, classic bistro dishes as interpreted by chef/owners Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr — of Frenchette and Le Rock fame — are wonders of delicious, rustic decadence. They make old warhorses seem new.

Everything tasted better than it did at Balthazar, where Hanson and Nasr once cooked, and better than I recall from an ancient, nameless auberge somewhere in the Loire Valley.

But this golden calf has a shady side as well. It’s the most glaring clash of great cuisine and obnoxious pricing, among other issues, since before the pandemic.

First, the great news. The L-shaped dining room, which looks much like the original, is easy on the eyes. So are customers, a mix of older uptown swells and younger downtown curiosity-seekers, most of whom dress casually but, thankfully, without cargo pants or excessive cleavage.

The old Le Veau D’Or drew celebs from Grace Kelly to Jackie Onassis and had fans in food critics such as Craig Claiborne. But over time, the kitchen faded and the crowds shrank.

The revival, although not an exact replica, brings back the cozy visuals, with a black-and-red linoleum floor, wood panels, red leather chairs, gleaming beveled mirrors and red-check gingham tablecloths.