It began with a silhouette: supple leather, intricate stitching, the unmistakable toe ring of a Kolhapuri chappal. In Milan, it was hailed as luxury. In India, it was recognised as something far more profound – and its omission of origin as an affront.

When Prada’s latest design walked the catwalk at Milan Fashion Week last month, it carried with it a legacy. And soon after, a controversy that reignited questions of cultural respect.

The Italian fashion house’s latest collection, which included footwear bearing a striking resemblance to the centuries-old chappals, set off a firestorm of debate in India.

The initial absence of any mention of the shoe’s origins, born of a long tradition rooted in the bustling markets and dusty workshops of Maharashtra, prompted accusations of cultural appropriation and exploitation.

It took a wave of public outcry for Prada to acknowledge its debt. In a letter to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, the brand conceded that its design was, in fact, “inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage.”

Kolhapuri chappals, crafted from buffalo hide tanned with natural dyes and assembled without a single nail, are more than mere footwear. They bear a “geographical indication” tag, a mark of authenticity and regional pride. For generations, they have been made by hand, often for a fraction of the price now commanding attention on Europe’s fashion runways.